Ashford "JUST-IN-CASE-MANUAL"

(Instructions for adjusting your Ashford Wheel. Written by Richard Ashford with slight editing by Susan Druding. Provided here with the kind permission of Susan Druding. )

by Richard Ashford

You shouldn't need it . . . but in case you do, here it is.

A new machine requires a running in period to allow all moving parts to bed-in.
Here are a few tips to tune your Ashford spinning wheel for peak performance.

Numbers 15 to 25 apply to specified models- Traditional, Traveller, Elizabeth

=== G E N E R A L === (for all wheel types)

1) Spin the wheel without the drive cord. It should revolve freely. If not, oil the wheel bearing by spreading the wheel supports and let the oil drop onto the crank shaft between the hub and the bearings. Oil the con rod bearing and the metal pins on the end of the treadle rail which fit into the legs. Use Ashford spinning wheel oil or 30 grade motor oil.

2) If the treadle squeaks or feels tight check the alignment of the holes in the legs. On all spinning wheels it is possible to move the legs slightly by loosening the screws or bolts and twisting them. Candle wax rubbed on the metal pins will also reduce noise and friction.

3) Remove drive cord and brake band from flyer and bobbin and, spin the flyer to check it revolves freely. To reduce friction ensure the flyer bearings are at right angles to the flyer shaft.

4) Check that there is about 2-3mm (1/8") float in the flyer and bobbin between the 2 flyer bearings. The float eliminates any friction between the flyer and bearing sides. On the double drive wheels, ensure the whorl is threaded on firmly (for earlier models) or pushed onto the nylon whorl insert for the current models. A smear of grease on this joint will make it easier to change bobbins.

5) Check for lacquer on the spindle of both factory finished or home finished wheels. If there is scrape it oft with a knife. Lacquer increases friction on bobbin and flyer bearings.

6) Oil the bobbin and flyer bearings often.

7) Spin the bobbin on the flyer. If, in the unlikely case, it is still not free running, the bearings may require reaming. This is most easily achieved with a 6mm (1/4") round chainsaw file - or fine sand/glass paper wrapped around a pencil.

8) Drive cord position. Check to see it is aligned directly between the wheel and flyer. If it is off-centre, the drive cord will rub on the side of the wheel groove and push the flyer against one of it's bearings thus creating friction.

9) Adjust the drive belt tension so that the wheel only just drives the flyer (and bobbin if double drive). Too tight a drive belt increases friction on the wheel and flyer bearings and makes treadling harder. (The drive belt should have about 25mm (1") of stretch from its normal position). Belt dressing or resin will increase belt grip without additional tension. Any medium soft cotton cord will make a suitable replacement drive belt. If the urethane (plastic) belt has stretched, order a replacement (Country or Scholar spinning wheels). The new turbo kit drive belt for single drive wheels also reduces bearing friction greatly.

10) Place the brake band in position over the larger whorl on the single drive bobbin. For normal spinning and plying, the spring should only just start to stretch. If it is necessary to extend the spring up to double it's length for the yarn to feed onto the bobbin check items 4, 5, 6, and 7. If the groove in the bobbin whorl for the brake band is rough or is too "V" shaped the brake band could catch or jam. This can be corrected with a small round file or sandpaper. The brake band can be replaced with either nylon fishing line or cotton cord and a rubber band will substitute for the metal spring.

11) On double drive wheels the flyer whorl has a larger "V" groove. The smaller bobbin whorl groove is "U" shaped. This difference enables the wheel to drive the flyer at a constant speed and allows the bobbin to accelerate or slow down when drafting. Check the bobbin whorl is smooth and "U" shaped. Correct if necessary with file or sandpaper.

12) If the yarn catches in the orifice or snags on the flyer hooks smooth snags with a fine file or sandpaper. Replace worn hooks.

13) If you want your yarn to have lumps or bumps which do not fit through the standard flyer orifice, we offer a Jumbo Flyer Unit (both single and double drive) as a handy accessory. This has a 15mm (5/8") orifice (the standard is 10mm (3/8") and has extra large bobbins. These units are made for the Traditional, Traveller and Elizabeth spinning wheels.

14) If you wish to spin extra fine yarns, tightly twisted yarns or short fibres we also offer the high speed lace flyer kit for both single and double drive wheels.

=== TRADITIONAL SPINNING WHEEL ===

15) If the wheel binds slightly on the wheel bearings loosen the 4 bolts securing the frame together. Spin the wheel and retighten the bolts in a different sequence until the wheel spins freely.

16) If the drive cord is not directly aligned between the wheel and flyer whorl, adjust the maiden bar horizontally by loosening the screws under it. Realign the drive cord and retighten the screws.

17) Retain the allen key for future retightening of wheel parts as during use vibration may loosen bolts. (Tape it under treadle?)

=== TRAVELLER SPINNING WHEEL ===

18) The wheel supports are secured into the base with bolts. By loosening the bolts and twisting the wheel supports the alignment of the wheel bearings can be adjusted and thus reduce any friction on the crank. Retain the allen key to use again if necessary.

19) The wheel supports can be moved slightly horizontally by loosening the bolts. Avoid friction on the side of the hub by adjusting the wheel supports so there is a gap of about 1mm (1/16') gap.

20) If the drive cord is not directly aligned between the wheel and flyer whorl, adjust the maiden bar horizontally by loosening the screws under it. Realign the drive cord and retighten the screws.

21) If the treadle rail falls out of the legs, check that the legs have been hammered to the bottom of the holes in the base.

=== ELIZABETH SPINNING WHEEL ===

22) The wheel supports are secured into the base with bolts. By loosening the bolts and twisting the wheel supports, the alignment of the wheel bearings can be improved and thus reduce friction on the crank. Retain the allen key to use again if necessary.

23) The drive cord alignment is factory set, however it is possible to alter it slightly by loosening the bolts holding the wheel supports and twisting them. This twists the wheel but use care too much twisting may result in the crank binding on the wheel bearings.

24) The drive belt tension is adjusted with a wooden thread. This is the traditional tensioning system for spinning wheels. If it is hard to turn, rub candle wax onto the thread, as well as sides of adjustor block. [Note from Susan - some of the newer Elizabeth wheels now have metal threads in the drive belt tensionner which may be oiled.]

25) If the treadle rail falls out of the legs, check that the legs have been hammered to the bottom of the holes in the base.

Yours sincerely,
Richard Ashford

Slightly edited for posting  by Susan Druding at Crystal Palace Yarns.