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The Instructions below were taken directly
from Schacht's Website with their kind
permission.
They come with every new Schacht Wheel.
Schacht
Spindle Co., Inc.
Spinning Wheel
Instructions, Maintenance, & Warranty
Schacht
Spinning Wheel

We are pleased that
you have chosen one of our Schacht Spinning Wheels, and trust
that it will give you many fruitful hours of spinning. We have
taken great care in the design of our wheels to make them
efficient and sturdy, as well as aesthetically pleasing. Our
wheels are constructed using traditional woodworking joinery,
following the concept that form follows function. We feel that
good design and quality craftsmanship, along with regular
maintenance, ensures that your wheel will endure.
Each part has been specially designed with function in mind.
During manufacturing, every part is inspected for quality, and
the final assembly has been done by a skilled craftsperson.
Should you have any questions about the quality of the work or
the materials, please do not hesitate to contact your dealer or
our customer service department directly.
Your Schacht Spinning Wheel is a precision tool, having many
moving parts which require regular care and maintenance. The
better you understand your wheel, the more able you will be to
take advantage of its many features.
Please read this booklet before you start spinning.
Unpacking Your Wheel
Make sure you have the parts listed below.
Small
Box:
1-flyer
1-bobbin
1-flyer whorl
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Large
Box:
1-Lazy Kate
3-Bobbins
3-Lazy Kate bobbin rods
1-extra length of drive cord
1-5mm hex wrench
1- threading hook
1-brake tension spring and cord
1-carrying strap |
Double
Treadle Wheel Only:
2-treadles with treadle yokes
and clevis pins attached |
Attaching the treadle -
single treadle wheel
Place the treadle bearings on the front leg bar so that the
treadle bearings fit to the outside of the metal clips that are
on the front leg bar. Push down very hard on the treadle until
the bearings snap onto the leg bar. A sharp blow with the heel
of your hand or a light tap with a hammer on a piece of wood
placed on the treadle over the bearing will work.
Attaching the treadles - double treadle wheel
Place the treadles in their positions on the front leg bar so
that the treadle bearings fit to the outside of the metal clips
that are on the front leg bar. Push down very hard on each
treadle until the bearings snap onto the leg bar. A sharp blow
with the heel of your hand or a light tap with a hammer on a
piece of wood placed on the treadle over the bearing will work.
Attaching the
footman
To attach the footman to the treadle or treadles, in the case of
the double treadle wheel, remove the cotter pins and clevis pins
from the treadle yokes. Place the leather footman inside the
treadle yoke and slide the clevis pin through the yoke and
footman and reinsert the cotter pin in the hole of the clevis
pin. For the double treadle wheel, attach the footman that is
toward the front of the wheel to the shorter treadle and the
footman that is toward the rear to the longer treadle. The flat
heads of the clevis pins should face each other.
Adjusting the treadle height
This adjustment is only necessary if your treadle is either
rubbing the drive wheel or hitting the rear leg cross support.
To adjust the treadle height, remove the hairpin cotter pin from
the clevis pin and pull the clevis pin out of the treadle yoke.
Use a 7/16” wrench to loosen the nut on the treadle yoke.
Rotate the yoke clockwise to raise the treadle and
counterclockwise to lower the treadle. Make only two or three
turns and reassemble the footman and treadle yoke and check to
see that the treadle is not hitting either the drive wheel or
the cross support. Repeat this adjustment until you are
satisfied with the position of the treadle. Retighten the nut on
the treadle yoke.
Adjusting the Front Legs
The front legs of your spinning wheel can be adjusted to
accommodate uneven floors. Simply turn the plastic feet
clockwise or counterclockwise to shorten or lengthen the legs.
Installing the flyer assembly
Loosen the front maiden T-knob about one turn. Pivot the front
maiden forward. Take the flyer-bobbin-whorl assembly and fit the
small end of the flyer shaft into the rear maiden bearing. Be
sure to lift the drive band up and over the bobbin and whorl
pulleys. Pivot the front maiden up and fit the flyer orifice
into the front maiden bearing. Be sure to retighten the T-knob.
Changing bobbins
Loosen the front T-knob on the maiden about one turn. Hold the
flyer with one hand and pivot the front maiden forward until the
flyer orifice is out of the front maiden bearing. Hold the drive
band up and out of the way as you pull the flyer towards you
until the flyer shaft is out of the rear maiden bearing. Remove
the flyer whorl. (Unlike most spinning wheel flyer whorls, which
screw onto the flyer shaft, our quick-attach whorls need only to
be pushed on and pulled off the square part of the flyer shaft.)
Remove the full bobbin and replace it with an empty bobbin. If
you are spinning in double drive mode, face the small end of the
bobbin toward the flyer whorl; in Scotch tension mode, the large
end of the bobbin faces the flyer whorl.
Double drive mode

We have shipped the
flyer, bobbin and the medium speed flyer whorl already set up. A
drive cord, tied for double drive mode, is also in place ready
for use. If you want another size whorl on the flyer, just pull
the one that is on the flyer straight off. (The fast speed whorl
is attached to the wheel behind the rear maiden.) Select the
flyer whorl you want to start with and put it on the flyer
shaft. Always face the smaller pulley of any flyer whorl towards
the bobbin. In double drive mode, the small pulley end of the
bobbin should always face the open end of the flyer.
Put one loop of the drive band over the small pulley on the
bobbin and the other loop of the drive band over one of the
pulleys of the flyer whorl.
Adjust the tension on the drive band by turning the drive band
tension knob (the mushroom-shaped knob on top). Start with a
loose drive band. Begin to treadle slowly. Turn the tension knob
clockwise until the flyer and bobbin both begin to turn. Now you
can begin to spin. Continue to turn the tension knob in a
clockwise direction to increase the take-up of the yarn onto the
bobbin or counter-clockwise to reduce the amount
of take-up.
Scotch tension or
flyer-lead mode
Place a bobbin on the flyer shaft with the large pulley end
facing the open end of the flyer. Put a flyer whorl on the flyer
shaft. In Scotch tension mode, a single drive band is placed
over one of the flyer whorl pulleys. You can use the drive band
as supplied by putting both loops of the drive band over the
flyer whorl pulley. However, if you are going to be using your
wheel primarily in the Scotch tension mode, we suggest that you
use a slightly heavier cord than we supply and tie it as a
single drive band. The drive band should be taut but not overly
tight.
Attach the brake tension spring to the spring bar on the
left rear of the mother-of-all. Loop the brake cord over the
large pulley of the bobbin and insert it into the front hole in
the brake tension rod. Push it through the hole and about
1/2”. Turn the brake adjusting knob clockwise until the brake
spring barely begins to stretch. Now you can start spinning.
Turn the brake adjusting knob in the clockwise direction to
increase the amount of take-up of your yarn onto the bobbin or
counter-clockwise to decrease the amount of take-up.
When using the Scotch tension mode
the yarn will wind onto the bobbin in the opposite direction
than when using the double drive mode. This does not affect your
spinning, but it is good to be aware of this in case you should
change spinning modes in the middle of a bobbin.
Using
different flyer whorls
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The type of
fiber you are spinning and the kind of yarn you want to
produce will determine which flyer whorl to use.
Choosing a compatible whorl for the task at hand will go
a long way in helping you comfortably create the yarn
you want. Your spinning wheel comes with two flyer
whorls: a Medium Speed Whorl with 9:1 and 11:1 ratios
and a Fast Speed Whorl with 13:1 and 15 1/2:1 ratios. We
offer five others, which are specified in the chart
below. The general rules to remember are: the larger
(slower) the whorl, the thicker the yarn, the less the
twist, and the greater the take-up. It is also important
to remember that, in the double drive mode, depending on
how much or how little tension you put on the drive
band, you can increase or decrease the take up. In the
Scotch Tension mode the amount of take-up is controlled
by the amount of tension you put on the brake spring
& cord. The greater the tension, the greater the
take-up. |
Schacht
Spindle Company
Whorl Ratio Chart
Name
Extra Slow Speed
Slow Speed
*Medium Speed
*Fast Speed
**High Speed
**Super High Speed
** Exceptionally High Speed |
Ratio
4:1 & 4 1/2:1
6:1 & 7 1/2:1
9:1 & 11:1
13:1 & 15 1/2:1
17 1/2:1 & 19 1/2:1
18 1/2:1 & 22:1
23 1/2: 1 & 27 1/2:1
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Bobbins
Regular Bobbin
New High Speed Bobbin
*Comes with wheel
** We recommend using our new high speed
bobbin with these whorls.
The drive band
Your spinning wheel comes with a pre-tied drive band (tied for
double drive) and an extra length of drive band. For additional
drive bands, use a soft cotton cord which is about 1/16 inch
thick (an eight or ten-ply butcher or package twine works fine).
A soft drive band allows you to use less tension than a harder,
slicker cord, making treadling easier. While a soft drive band
will wear quicker, we believe the gain in performance is worth
the more frequent changing of drive bands. If you would like the
same drive band we supply with your wheel, send us $3.50 for
three drive bands (plus shipping and handling).
Tying on a new drive band
Cut off the old drive band. In double drive mode, place a bobbin
in the flyer with the small pulley facing the open end of the
flyer. Put the medium speed whorl on and put the flyer back in
the maidens. Turn the drive band tension knob until the flyer is
parallel to the mother-of-all. Face the front of the wheel. Hang
one end of the drive band cord over the bobbin pulley so that it
hangs down about 12 inches on the right side. On the left side
take the cord down and around the bottom of the drive wheel and
up and over the larger pulley of the whorl. Go down and around
the bottom of the drive wheel a second time. Bring the end of
the cord up to the first end. Tie the two ends together using a
square knot. Make sure that you tie the drive band very taut,
since it will loosen some with use. Cut off the ends of the cord
close to the knot.
If you are using the slower speed or the higher speed
whorls, it is best to tie a separate drive band for them. Always
start tying the drive band with the flyer parallel to the
mother-of-all. Several drive bands can be left on the wheel at
the same time. Just fold up the ones not in use and let them
hang from the maiden or the front leg.
For Scotch tension, use the same method as above, except that
only a single drive band is tied around the drive wheel and the
whorl.
The
industrious Lazy Kate
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Our
spinning wheels come with our unique Lazy Kate that has
an adjustable tension control cord which helps prevent
bobbins from rotating too fast when releasing yarn.
Place the bobbins in the Lazy Kate with the large pulley
ends toward the tension cord. The ball ends of the
bobbin rods should be on the side opposite the tension
cord. Slip the tension cord over the grooves in the
large pulleys. Turn the control knob to increase or
decrease the tension on the bobbins. |
Maintenance
Lubricating the moving parts
Before leaving the factory, your wheel was lubricated and test
run. It may have been a while since then, so it is a good idea
to oil your wheel before starting to spin. Use a small drop of
oil on the following parts every couple of hours while spinning:
front maiden bearing, the rear maiden bearing, the bobbin
bearings, both drive wheel crank bearings. Other parts may need
occasional oiling. Use medium weight oil such as 20 or 30 weight
motor oil. See the diagrams in this booklet for oiling points.
The wood in your spinning wheel
We use hard maple and black walnut in the finest grades
available. All of our wood is kiln dried to assure its stability
under a variety of conditions.
Maple is a strong and beautiful hardwood which varies in color
from pale cream to biscuit brown. It has a very fine grain and
is very resistant to abrasion. American black walnut’s deep
brown heartwood beautifully accents the design of your wheel.
Wood is a natural breathing material, and like any natural
material, it is affected by its environment. Avoid placing your
wheel near direct heat sources such as heat vents, wood stoves,
space heaters, and direct sunlight. Heat concentrated on parts
of the wheel can cause them to dry out and shrink. This
shrinkage can cause weakness in the joints and the warping of
parts. Likewise, place your wheel where it will be free of damp,
moisture-laden air, as this can make wood swell and cause the
moving parts to stiffen and function inefficiently.
About the finish on your spinning wheel
The flyer of our spinning wheel has been finished with a lacquer
to give its fine laminations additional protection from oils and
moisture. The other parts of our wheel have been finished with a
mixture of tung oil and urethane. The oil part of the finish
penetrates into the wood and the urethane provides the surface
area additional protection against abrasion. If you need to
touch up parts of your wheel which have gotten chipped or
scuffed, you can lightly sand the worn area using a fine (150
grit) sandpaper and apply a small amount of finish using a soft
lint-free rag. Use either Deft or Watco natural color Danish oil
finish. Both are available at most hardware stores. Follow the
directions on the container. Because of the dangers of
spontaneous combustion, be sure to clean and dispose of the
applicators and oily rags properly.
Maintenance notes
Your wheel is both a carefully engineered piece of equipment and
a fine piece of furniture. A simple schedule of regular care and
maintenance will ensure you and your Schacht Spinning Wheel many
productive years together.
* Clean excess fibers from all parts of your wheel.
* Periodically lubricate the moving parts.
* Touch up and refinish worn areas of your wheel.
* Periodically check the screws for tightness.
We are continually
striving to improve our products and dealer service.
We welcome your comments.
Serial # of your wheel __________________.
The serial number of your spinning wheel is stamped into the
wood on the rear of the mother-of-all. (If the serial number on
your wheel does not’t agree with the number written on this
page, please reference the number stamped on your wheel.)
Two Year
Limited Warranty
Your new Schacht Spinning Wheel is warranted, to the original
consumer purchaser, by Schacht Spindle Company, Inc. to be free
of defects in material and workmanship. Schacht Spindle
Company’s obligation under this Warranty shall be limited to
the repair or replacement of any part or parts which may prove
defective within two (2) years following the date of original
purchase by the consumer, and which Schacht Spindle Company’s
examination shall disclose to our satisfaction to be thus
defective.
If a problem with this
Schacht Spindle Company product develops during the warranty
period, first contact the Schacht Spindle Company dealer from
whom you made the purchase. If the problem cannot be handled
through your dealer, then contact our customer service
department. At our option, it may be required that the product
be returned to our factory freight prepaid for inspection and
repair and/or replacement.
This Warranty covers normal consumer use and does not cover
damage which occurs in shipment or damage which results from
alteration, accident, misuse, abuse, or neglect.
This Warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also
have other rights which vary from state to state.
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